Bound button holes. Love ’em or hate ’em, there’s no doubt they look good! I am part-way through making this Butterick pattern from the late 50s, early 60s. There is no date on the pattern anywhere so an exact year is out. The fabric is a silk blend & lovely to work with.
I wanted to make a feature of the buttonholes on the jacket this time, the fabric is interesting enough & I’d found 3 perfect “of the time” buttons in a local antiques store. First up I needed to check how the fabric behaved being folded, how much fraying there’d be, & how wide to make the lips. “Lips”? What is the correct terminology for those bits anyway? I’ve always called them lips, but I suppose there is a better word out there! 🙂
Two tests, the bottom buttonhole was un-interfaced. It stretched like mad when stitching, making the lips more around & therefore not line up properly when the hole was cut & the lips turned through. The top one was interfaced, but on the bias. Also didn’t work, although there was now more bulk in the lips, which I prefered. So I went with interfacing the lips on the straight to reduce the tendency of the fabric to stretch. I also basted those little blighters within a millimetre of their little lives! Stitching progress was SLOW, but totally worth it!
Phew! They lined up, they didn’t stretch – Success!! 😀 The fabric is lovely, but…. Those little squares love to slip against eachother when the stitches all face the same way! I needed loads of pins & no small amount of patience!
The jacket is unlined & I hate having raw edges on display. The best thing for it is to bind all the edges. I love a Hong Kong finish, especially when it gives you the chance to use a contrast or print fabric. I looked everywhere for a coppery lining to use in this jacket, to no avail. Beige just looked washed out. In the end I settled on this slightly darker colour. It’s kinda chestnut, but dark. I quite like it!
I cut strips 3cm wide & stitched about 6-7mm from the seam edge. It looks great now that the jacket is a little more put together! All the raw edges are going to get this treatment, including the sleeve hem & the edges of the facings.
So this is where I am up to. I need to interface & sew the collar, interface & sew the facings, trim the facings with the Hong Kong finish & then sew all those elements to the jacket. then do the hem on the sleeves & sew on the buttons. I recon I’ll be finished soon!
Have you tried bound buttonholes? What seam finishes do you use, or do you rely on your overlockers?