My list of “to make NOW” patterns is growing! A large box containing 32 vintage patterns & a number of pieces of fabric arrived for me from a friend in the US before Christmas, & another with 34 patterns & more fabric arrived this week! This fabulous vintage jacket & dress pattern was in that first box & I knew it would be going on the top of the pile I already had on my sewing table!
Now I absolutely adore a portrait collar, so naturally I couldn’t wait to make this jacket. One of the pieces of fabric in that first large box was a yellow & white cotton gingham check. Perfect for the dress! I rummaged through my stash & found a piece of white linen with a decent weight for a summer jacket & this project was underway! I cut it all out in early December but am only now getting it all finished.
There was a “little” discussion on twitter this week regarding “fashion-style bloggers” and “sewing bloggers”. It seems to revolve mainly around taking of pretty, this is what I made photos as opposed to ordinary this is what I made photos, together with pictures of the “ugly insides”. Now I like a good photograph, afterall, first impressions count, no matter what people like to say out loud. For me, it’s the content of the blog that counts, photos are the icing on the cake! However, good photos showing off a well made garment need not be dismissed as “not authentic” in the sewing world. I don’t have “ugly insides” in my garments. I took & taught City & Guilds sewing courses – ugly insides would not have cut the mustard with my tutor!! 🙂 For those of you who’d like to see the “ugly inside”, here’s a collage of the construction details.
The jacket is interfaced with cotton fusible on the facings & self cuffs, but I used a sew-in thicker cotton for the collar. It needed the support to sit properly. The seams are finished with the “clean finish” technique. I usually like to finish seams in an unlined jacket with bias, but the white would have shown a colour through. Also, matching white is rather like matching black, the other fabric you have is never quite the same shade as the one you’re using!
The shell button is a vintage find, I’ve had it for years & think it may just have come from my Grandmother’s tin… This is another jacket with a bound buttonhole, at least with linen you can iron it all in place & know it’s going to stay where you’ve put it! I interfaced the square of linen for the “lips” with cotton interfacing, as well as the area behind the buttonhole to give the area more stability. The snap on the centre front line near the hem helps to keep the front shut. I think maybe the pattern could have squeezed in another buttonhole, but 2 looks odd. Better with 1 or 3.
I have taken step by step photos of the buttonhole procedure, stay tuned while I figure out how to create a useful & good-looking tutorial!
The dress is under construction & will hopefully be finished this weekend. The two together will make a fabulous summer outfit for someone! The pattern is for a bust 38 inches, another beautiful pattern that is too big for Belle & too small for me, so it’s available for purchase in my Etsy shop.