Pumpkin Spice

1950s Butterick 7315

1950s Butterick 7315

This project came about as the result of me being helpful to a fellow sewer & blogger.  She needed to clear out her stash & who was I to let perfectly good fabric pass me by?  Evie from Pendle Stitches had a whole bundle of pretty things needing new homes, and when I spotted a spicy coloured cotton twill, I knew I had to have it.  Belle is very into this colour this season so I figured it would be made quickly and not get anywhere near my stash!

When it arrived it got the seal of approval, but what to make.  Initially a 60s dress was suggested, with another rescued fabric being a plaid jacket to wear with it.  There wasn’t enough to make the jacket, so I suggested a jacket in the twill & skirt in the plaid.  SOLD!  The chosen pattern for the jacket, Butterick 7315 was added to my pattern collection earlier in the year for 50p from a charity shop in Tewkesbury.  Just 50p!  It was unused, but had been opened up and refolded.  I traced it off & got cracking on a toile which fitted surprising well!  All I needed to do was widen the shoulder, but that’s normal for Belle, I just need to know by how much.

I decided to line the jacket.  As Belle is going to be wearing it this season it made no sense to leave it as a single layer.  This meant I was able to get some good structure in the interfacing inside.  We chose a Liberty lawn for the body of the jacket & a remnant of grey-ish lining fabric for the sleeve.  The pattern itself is easy to make, vintage instructions are pretty clear.  I made lining pattern pieces from the traced pattern, adding a good pleat in the centre back.  Gill Arnold’s fusible interfacings were used on all the relevant areas, with the lighter weights for the facings & undercollar.

Providing structure - fusible interfacings

Providing structure – fusible interfacings

I really like this jacket, it has a fabulous shape all round & the darts in the sleeve give it good shape.  The little fold-back cuffs look good too, and maybe if I made it again I’d play with adding some sort of detail there.  We struggled to pick buttons for this jacket – mostly because of the colour!  Like chosing the lining, it was so easy to pick safe, predictable and ultimately, boring & dated buttons.  I picked out black, brown, cream, brass military, dark olive green and deep blue buttons in the hope that something would work.  In the end it was chance that decided.  I’d dropped some left over fabric onto the pile of fabric to be used next, the top piece being a dark blue stretch denim for a pair of Ginger Jeans.  The dark blue denim looked so good with the orange that we decided there & then to go with blue buttons!

I couldn’t resist seeing how the jacket looked as I sewed, so before the lining went in I put it on my vintage dress form.

Without lining

Without lining – a little saggy really.

It’s pretty interesting to see the difference in how it looks with & without the lining!

With the lining in!  Much better.

With the lining in! Much better.

Once Belle was around to try it on again before I sewed the lining down around the hem I wanted to see how the sleeves and shoulders were looking.  It seemed to me that it needed a bit of help in the shoulder area, so I slipped a shoulder pad in on her right shoulder, see if you can make out any difference, I swear it looked more marked in real life than it does in these photos!

Belle's right shoulder has a shoulderpad on it, the left does not.

Belle’s right shoulder has a shoulderpad on it, the left does not.

I added shoulder pads after this, and I much prefer the overall look.  It’s just more finished off.  But let me talk lining.  I had hoped to find something in the stash but as luck would have it, none of the pieces were big enough.  I popped into my local fabric store in Stratford on Avon but the linings were all a bit safe, boring & definitely looked too dated and old fashioned for a 17-going-on-18-year-old.  So I checked out the Liberty lawn.  They had a sale on so I figured, “what harm could I do?”  I bought 1m in the end, a leaf/feather print in red, blue, yellow & black.  No orange in sight…  How can it possibly work, I hear you ask.  See what you think.

Liberty print cotton lawn lining

Liberty print cotton lawn lining

Weirdly enough, it works – just like the blue buttons!

DSC09519-1I apologise for the grainy filter on these photos.  Unfortunately the quality of light this week has been pretty dire & they all came out so blue.  This was the only way I could get some semblance of the right colour.

DSC09520-1The jacket really does have a wonderful fit, from the illustration on the envelope you’d think it was much more fitted, but there is enough ease with that great shape.

DSC09518-1

The jacket finishes in the perfect place for low-rise jeans!

DSC09521-1This will be the 19th jacket in Belle’s wardrobe.  I must stop, please help me to stop….

DSC09524-1

I just love that bit of blue on the buttons.

What’s next after this? Certainly not another jacket! 🙂  Although, they do say “Never say never”….

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15 responses to “Pumpkin Spice

  1. This is SO CUTE and such a perfect color for Belle! But- 19 jackets?! I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… she’s the luckiest girl around! You’re such a great mom!

  2. Anne. Words fail me. Lucky girl is putting it mildly. And I am fascinated by your use of interfacing – on the sleeve heads too? I self taught and usually just interface collar and facings but the pro look is making me realise I need to study interfacing use better for my next jacket! Thanks for the link – I hope I can get those interfacings shipped to Malta as they look like great thoughtful quality. The tana goes perfectly. I used some liberty poplin I had in my stash to interline a short bolero summer jacket in heavy blue linen- just the body, as I wanted the sleeves to let more air in- wand bound all my seams, worked perfectly. But I hadn’t though cotton would work as an autumn lining. Does it not stick to tops?
    Oh- can I ask you something? I finally got my hands on a copy of the pattern for the portrait jacket – enabler! – and am going to make it in lovely old Rose Brioni fine cord I got from supercut.it. Did you interface the shoulders and chest of those jackets?
    Thank you for yet another inspiring and informative beauty of a post!

    • Thanks! 🙂 Interfacing on the sleevehead helps to support the shape. With cotton linings, they work ok if you keep something slippy in the sleeves, otherwise the sleeves of your tops end up under your armpits! I use a “proper” lining fabric for sleeves. I did not line the portrait collar jacket, so kept the interfacings on the facing pieces. I’ve used different interfacings on the collar each time, fusible canvas, weft insertion and sew-in cotton canvas. Test a piece on some scrap fabric first to determine which works the best to support that deep collar. Probably with a fine cord, I’d opt for the fusible canvas. Just remember to cut it without seam allowances, you don’t want that caught in the seams! Good luck!

      • Thank you! You are truly kind. That is so cool to know about cotton linings working so long as the sleeves are slippy. And thank you for the interfacing information – I really appreciate it. To the point where I’m going to print it out for future reference. I never thought of cutting seam allowance off interfacing – what a brilliant idea to stop bulk! Especially once cord has to be finger pressed. A thousand thank yous!

  3. 19th jacket! Wow! Can you start making them for me? I keep getting sidetracked from the jacket queue that I’ve set for myself – mostly sewing things for the DD’s. Love the colour of this one. It looks amazing with her gorgeous hair.

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